The Shoalhaven River, in southern NSW, is surprisingly rugged for much of its 327km length.

Story + Photos Don Fuchs 

Dampier is a prominent 1239m high hill that rises over the forested expanse of Deua National Park. On its flanks, the 327km long Shoalhaven River starts. For local ranger Duncan Allan, this is one of the reasons this 1220sq km wilderness reserve is so precious. “Wambagugga Swamp – that’ll be really the start of the Shoalhaven River,” he says. Although the river officially starts higher up the mountain, the swamp forms a large open area in the forest. “Wambagugga Swamp is a really important part as it regulates the flow a little bit. It is not so dependent on rainfall like the top part and feeds the river in a more consistent manner.”

Starting on this lofty landmark, a 5-day road trip along the Shoalhaven River reveals the many faces of one of the last largely wild rivers in NSW, and the deep connection people living along its course have to it. By the time the Shoalhaven leaves Deua National Park, it is already a small river, running through picturesque rural scenery of scattered farmhouses and lush pastures. Dark, forested hills in the distance frame this secluded pastoral idyll.

This story excerpt is from Issue #156

Outback Magazine: August/September 2024